INKA TRAIL INCA TRAIL INKA TRAIL INCA TRAIL
HIKING
THE INCA TRAIL
The Inca Trail winds across the Andes to
Machu Picchu
The Inca Trail between
the Sacred Valley of the Urubamba River and the mysterious abandoned
citadel of Machu Picchu is one of the world's classic treks. Climbing
out of the river valley, crossing rugged mountain passes over 13,000
ft high, the trail winds through the Andes, passing numerous significant
Inca ruins en route before descending through the Sun Gate to the
silent stone city of Machu Picchu. To hike the Inca Trail is a thrilling
experience and a very great priviledge. The purpose of this website
is to share the thrill and privilege of the trip with those who
may not hike it in person, and to help future hikers plan their
coming adventure.
But the Inca Trail
is much more than a great hike. It is one small portion of an incredible
network of such trails crossing high stony mountain ranges, bleak
deserts, and raging Andean rivers, tying the Inca Empire together.
At its peak expansion, Tahuantinsuyo --"The Four Corners",
as the empire was known-- extended from what is now southern Columbia
in the north, to central Chile in the south, a distance of about
5500 km (3400 mi). To rule such a vast domain, the emperor, or Inca,
forged a remarkable communications system of approximately 30,000
km (18,600 mi) of trails, paved
through much its length, stepped
where need be, through tunnels
where necessary, and using gossamer suspension
bridges built of straw ropes to cross rivers unfordable in the
wet season. The roads served to move the conquering Inka armies,
and were generally wide enough for a minimum of two warriors to
travel abreast. A system of runners stationed at rest houses known
as tambos sped messages along the roadways, much like the
Pony Express mail of the old American West. The Inca in his empire's
capital at Cusco could receive news from far away Quito as rapidly
as a letter crosses between the two cities in today's mail.
As remarkable as
this highway system was in the days when it was built, used and
maintained, it is an astounding testimony to its construction that
so many segments remain serviceable today, after half a millennium
of neglect. Clearly the Inka highway system ranks as one of the
greatest engineering achievements of pre-industrial man.
Trekkers of the
Inca Trail, be it the well-known portion leading to Machu Picchu,
or lesser-visited segments, are privileged to make use of an archeological
treasure, as well as to partake of scenes of surpassing beauty.
Care for the trail: don't abuse it in ways that promote loosening
or erosion of the stonework. Care for the beauty of the landscape:
don't leave trash or waste behind.
Back
to top
And now, the Inca
Trail, from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu.
Most Inca Trail
treks begin at either Km. 88 on the railroad to Machu Picchu, or
the village of Chilca, which lies in the Urubamba Valley downstream
from Ollantaytambo, to which it is connected by a dirt road.
If beginning at
Km 88, you have to take the mixed local train (first class tourist
trains do not stop here) and be prepared to jump off quick (even
the mixed local doesn't stop long!). Here you cross the Urubamba
on a footbridge at about 2200 m (7200 ft) and pay your Inca Trail
entry fee ($50) to the custodian. The trail turns back to the left
and heads for the ruin known as Llactapata; there is a 1 km long
side trail off to the right that will take you to a little visited
ruin known as Q'ente (translated as "hummingbird").
If beginning at
Chilca, the trail, which here is an unpaved trail of possibly Inca
or post - Inca origin, follows along the left bank of the Urubamba
gorge, with views across the river of terraced farmland, snow-capped
mountains, a glacial valley with a beautiful example of a terminal
moraine, and a small, inhabited Inca ruin. For much of the nine
kilometers from Chilca to Llactapata the rail line is also in sight
on the opposite side of the river, and you may see the red and yellow
coaches (or blue, in their newer livery) of the train rock by.
At Llactapata there
is a fine campsite
near the ruins, popular with trekkers starting from Chilca.
In '91 a family living in a house here was pleased to sell bottled
drinks to hikers. Llactapata ("town on a hillside") may
be unimportant compared to Machu Picchu, but would be considered
a major archeological site anywhere in North America, and is well
worth a couple of hours exploring. There are extensive agricultural
terraces, ruined houses, and an unusual round watchtower-like structure
From Llactapata
the trail turns south, away from the Urubamba and up the valley
of the Río Cusichacha, a small stream scarcely deserving
the appellation "river". Trekkers starting from Km 88
will probably continue past Llactapata up the Cusichacha about seven
km to its junction with the Río Llullucha, where the trail
turns west and follows the Llullucha. Just above the junction of
the two streams is the village of Huayllabamba ("grassy plain",
the only inhabited village on the Inca Trail). Beyond this village
are three regular campsites along the Río Llullucha. The
first of these is "Three White Stones" and is only about
a half-hour walk from Huayllabamba. The next campsite, Llulluchapampa,
is significantly higher up the trail, and colder, but features toilets.
A third and final campsite on this side of the first high pass is
yet another 20 minutes or half hour further up the trail. Any one
of these campsites makes a good overnight rest stop for trekkers
starting from Km. 88. Llulluchapampa camp is about 11 km from Llactapata.
From the campsites
in the Llullucha valley, the Inca Trail struggles
up above the tree line to cross the first and highest of the
mountain passes between Llactapata and Machu Picchu. At Huarmiwañusqa,
more popularly known as "Dead Woman Pass", the trail reaches
an elevation of 4198 m (13,772 ft). It's a heart-pounder for most,
but the reward is a stunning
view back down the Llullucha valley to snow-capped mountains
in the distance, and a preview of the ups
and downs ahead on the trail to Runkurakay.
From Dead Woman
Pass the descent to the small stream known as the Río Pacamayo
requires an hour or more. A short distance below the pass the trail
passes through the first tunnel, under and between giant boulders.
From the Río Pacamayo a new ascent ensues, which brings one
to the small ruin of Runkurakay.
This name, translated variously as "oval hut" or "egg
hut" is the smallest and most enigmatic of the ruins along
the hike. Perhaps it was a watchtower? Or perhaps a small tambo
for messenger relays. In any case, hard by the ruin is a pleasant
campsite.
The distance from Llulluchapampa to Runkurakay is only about six
km, but getting up and over the pass is strenuous.
Just above Runkurakay,
the Inca Trail becomes paved
with stones and assumes the more engineered nature for which
it is justly famed, and which characterizes it from here to Machu
Picchu.
A short hike beyond
Runkurakay ruin brings one to the pass of the same name, at 3998
m (13,116 ft), and after another hour's downhill hike one arrives
at the ruin of Sayacmarca ("dominant town"). This fort-like
ruin lies to the left of the trail and must be reached by a climb
up 98 steep stone steps. The town or fort is built on a mountain
spur and commands fine views.
From near Sayacmarca
the paved trail can be seen stretching
away into the distance. A short distance along the trail below
Sayacmarca is another much smaller
ruin and possible camping area.
In the stretch of
Inca Trail between Sayacmarca and the next major ruin, Phuyupatamarca,
trekkers will find some of the most impressive Inka trail engineering.
Along one section the trail passes through a boggy area as a raised
causeway. At another point it passes through a hewn
tunnel, and at yet another point stones were set in notches
cut in a cliff face to
build up a surface wide enough to walk along where none existed
naturally. This section of the trail also features some of the most
interesting exotic vegetation seen on the trek, and at one point,
an awesome view back down to the Río Urubamba in its winding
gorge.
After passing through
the third pass (4000 m, 13,125 ft) and some of the wildest rugged
scenery imaginable, the trail reaches Phuyupatamarca
("town above the clouds"), approximately nine km and two-
to three hours hike from Sayacmarca. The ruin is reached by descending
a long flight
of stairs, and near the entry the trekker finds a series of
six flowing liturgical fountains or "baths", illustrating
the Incas' love of sparkling, splashing water and engineering ability
to play with it. Near Phuyupatamarca is a popular campsite, and
if the weather is clear, from a ridgecrest above the ruin a spectacular
view can be had of mighty Salcantay
(6271 m, 20,694 ft), a sacred mountain to the Inkas. Altogether,
the town above
the clouds is a most intriguing site.
The remaining distance
to Machu Picchu is around ten km, including a short side trip to
Wiñay Wayna ruins, and mainly downhill, dropping from around 3650
m (11,975 ft) to a mere 2400 m (7875 ft) at Machu Picchu. The change
in vegetation from alpine bunchgrass to relatively densely forested
mountainsides is dramatic.
Leaving Phuyupatamarca
the Inca Trail descends an unbelievably long series of winding
steps, many cut into the living
rock. Amazingly enough, this section of the trail was only discovered
a few years ago, and opened to trekkers in 1985; formerly, hikers
followed a section of non-Inca trail between Phuyupatamarca and
Wiñay Wayna. One has to wonder what unknown archeological treasures
remain hidden in the underbrush.
After a two to two-and-a-half
hour hike, the somewhat surprisingly located and intrusive Trekker
Hotel is reached. Beds, floorspace for sleeping bags, hot showers,
meals and drinks may be had here. And here a side trail takes off
a half a kilometer to Wiñay Wayna ("forever young", named
after an orchid species). This lovely
ruin is considered by some to be more beautiful than Machu Picchu,
if not as dramatic. It consists of an upper ceremonial section,
and a lower living section, connected by a long set of steps paralleling
a beautiful series of ten liturgical fountains. Both sections are
flanked by an enormous sweeping ampitheatre of agricultural terraces,
and the entire scene is set off by a waterfall in the forested backdrop.
This site alone would justify the entire Inka Trail hike (if it
needed justifying)!
From the Trekker
Hotel, a two hour hike, the trail passing through densely forested
mountain slopes, brings one to the Intipunku or Sun Gate,
and a first, unforgettable view of the ultimate goal: Machu
Picchu. And from here it is just a 30 minute hike along the
broad, flagstone-paved trail to reach the Watchman's Hut in the
upper part of the Machu Picchu's Agricultural Sector. But savor
the shifting panoramas as you hike this final segment of the Inca
Trail: the shear bromeliad-studded cliffs to the right of the trail;
what look like toy trains and tracks far below in the sinuous gorge
of the Urubamba; the drama of Huayna Picchu peak rising like a stone
juggernaut out of Pachamama's breast; and the mysterious grey stone
city mounted like a gem in a setting of cliffs and canyons. There
is no other place comparable!
Back
to top
Practical Information
for Trekkers:
Most outfitters
supplying Inca Trail trek services require reservations more than
a month in advance. Inca Trail permits are issued for each individual
trekker by name, and must be obtained at least 30 days before the
day the trek commences.
To enjoy the Inca
Trail trek to its fullest, you should allow at least four days for
the hike; five is better; six is luxurious!
Items you need to
take:
Backpack: full-size
packpack needed only if you are not using porters; if you are
going with a group with porters, then you only need a daypack.
Tent, sleeping
bag and compact sleeping mat. Note: If you have arranged your
Inka Trail trek with a trekking agency, they will probably provide
you a tent, and possibly a sleeping mat; some agencies, such as
Explorandes, also rent sleeping bags with clean liners. Check
with the agency you book with.
Clothing you
can layer for different temperatures at different altitudes: two-piece
polypro longjohns are good; an alpaca sweater for an outer layer
is good. One complete change of clothing so you can get into dry
clothes if what you are wearing gets soaked.
Light-weight
raingear; if jacket can double as a windbreaker, this is doubly
good.
Light-weight,
but good quality hiking boots that provide ankle support.
Cap or hat with
brim for sun protection; sunglasses; strong sunblock.
Multipurpose
knife, flashlight and extra batteries, matches.
Water bottle
and water purifying kit.
Towel and necessary
toiletries, including toilet paper.
Bug repellent
(you may never use it, but if you do need it you'll sure be sorry
not to have it).
Camera and lots
of film.
Essential first
aid items.
If you are not travelling with
an organized group with porters and cook, you will have to carry
all your own food and cookgear.
Back
to top
When to go:
Peruvian climate
features two seasons: dry season (May-Sept.) and wet season (Oct.-April).
In the dry season the high Andean countryside is characterized by
sere brown, gold, and tan colors, overarched by clear blue skies
and puffy white clouds. While there is some rain in the dry season,
it is not generally enough to impede hiking or road transport. The
wet season is warmer, and the mountainsides are a fantastic variety
of verdant shades; flowers abound. But the skies tend to be overcast,
misty, and sweeping views of the ranges may be hard to find. Rainfall
can be heavy and abundant, causing landslides that impede travel
on mountain roads and railroads; flights are commonly delayed by
weather. Trekking in the mountains (and canoeing on Andean or jungle
rivers) during the wet season is generally less enjoyable than in
the dry, though much depends on your luck with the weather on the
particular days you are hiking.
For the Inca Trail,
May might be the best month-- at the end of the wet season, when
the rains have quit, the skies are clear and views are great, but
everything is still bright and green. The disadvantage of going
in the best weather months is that this is precisely when traffic
is highest on the trail. The advantages of the wet season include
fewer other trekkers to share the trail with, and, naturally, water
is easier to find!
IMPORTANT UPDATE:
NEW RULES FOR THE INKA TRAIL WENT INTO EFFECT IN 2001:
Here's a summary of the new rules:
Entry fee will
be $50 USD for full trail ($25 USD for some shorter sections).
Independent
hikes, i.e., hikes without an authorized Inka Trail Guide, are
no longer permitted.
Group size may
not exceed 15 visitors, and no more than 40 total, including guide,
cook, porters and crew.
There will be
a limit of 500 people per day allowed to begin the trek.
Porters will
not be asked to carry more than 25 kilos.
Groups may not
stay more than four nights on that portion of the Inca Trail that
lies within the Machu Picchu sanctuary.
The inca trail
will be closed one month each year for maintenance (January or
February).
Hope you enjoyed
the photos and description of the Inca Trail, and find the information
both inspirational and useful.
To hike the
Inca Trail and participate in a very very special Bolivia/Peru
adventure, inca trail
To see guided
trips and other travel services offered by Inka trail Peru Adventures,
visit our homepage: inca trail
Inca trail 4Days
/ 3 Nights
Inca trail 2
Days
